Anna-Louise McDougall • Oct 14 • 8 min read
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The Runway Roundup - Trend Report from the SS22 Fashion Shows
As the dust settled on another season, for the designers, editors, buyers and models in IRL attendance, Spring Summer 22 will hold its place in history as the season that put the runway back on the map.
But, what else is on fashion’s “roadmap out” of the leisurewear stronghold?
In the Business of Fashion’s podcast wrap of the shows, Founder Imran Ahmed and Editor-at-Large Tim Blanks both conceded the future remained uncertain. “Did you get any hint of where fashion can go from here? I didn’t,” Blanks said. To which Ahmed agreed. The work-in-progress comeback of luxury fashion and all its loose ends conversely offers designers the real opportunity to show the world exactly what they’re made of.
And show us they did. Spectacle was a big player throughout, with Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Loewe, Versace/Fendi, Chanel, and Marni some of the most talked-about shows of the month due to presentation structures, spirited ambiance, headlining models and celebrities, and serious ‘wow’ factor.
Except for the major eco-warriors Gabriela Hearst, Stella McCartney et al, heading back to the runway meant that sustainability was put on the back-burner. Well, aside from the protester at Nicolas Ghesquière’s 19th century-inspired runway for Louis Vuitton. So, while the world’s biggest narrative remains climate change, Blanks felt that the designers were more engaged by the simplicity of humanity in the immediate moment.
So, while the world’s biggest narrative remains climate change, Blanks felt that the designers were more engaged by the simplicity of humanity in the immediate moment.
As the shows presented liberated, celebratory collections from Valentino, Rick Owens, Dior, and Chloé, at large, the uncertainty of what the pandemic will come to the table with next remained. However, they seemed to all agree - why wait for something to happen? Get out and re-join the party in the cut-outs, neon, and micro-minis while you can.
Get out and re-join the party in the cut-outs, neon, and micro-minis while you can.
Amidst an air of confidence and blissful ignorance of what the future holds, there are a few things for sure. Here’s the run-down on the trends that defined the SS22 runways.
90s Minimalism
Is it the inclusivity and size diversity wave that has brought on the resurgence of sleek midi skirts, crop tops, mesh layers, and cuts that elongate the torso - once reserved for Kate Moss and her cohort? Is it everyone’s chance to do it over - and better? Maryam Nassir Zadeh, KNWLS, and Collina Strada think so.
What is it about the 90s minimalism that we can’t get enough of? The golden age of fashion, the safety of nostalgia, the comfort we feel in what we already know, or conversely the shock value of bringing back something as subversive as low-rise pants in the eye of the cancel culture storm.
Hey, regardless of its subconscious meaning, it was fun. Chanel’s old-school showing with hair-flips and hip-swinging, Coperni’s and Acne’s low-rise pants, and Courrages mini skirts and band tees were a welcome change.
Coperni
Chanel
Courrèges
Crafty knitwear
Ah, a trend we can all get on board with.
Super soft, pleasantly tactile, the warm solar-drenched hues of comfortable summer knitwear are key to your next vacation.
Shredded, woven, and knotted knitwear in a technical array of decorative styles from maxi dresses to tiny cardigans. Alberta Ferretti’s macramé was knitted from silk threads, while Tod’s played with raw wool hand-knitted tunics and tops. Missoni, Etro, Staud, Rachel Comey and Altazurra produced extremely wearable collections through artisanal techniques and traditional means in dresses, tops, bags, and eveningwear. Space-dyed styles were seen at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Eckhaus Latta and Jonathan Simkhai, proving this popular trend seems to only be gaining momentum.
Staud
Alberta Ferretti
Jonathan Simkhai
Missoni
Iridescence
Shiny.
Disco.
Balls.
We get it, it’s party time. But not without some self-deprecating humour.
Jonathon Anderson for Loewe’s show was described as “neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical,” with perhaps the most playful element of the show being the warped, gold breastplates. Brandon Maxwell, LaQuan Smith, and Tom Ford were a little more conventional within their satin suiting, latex motorcycle pants, and blingy accessories. Rodarte proposed softer glitz in ultra-feminine silhouettes, while Courrages brought their space-age roots back with metallic tiny tops and boots.
Tom Ford
Loewe
Rodarte
Want in on all the trends?
These major ass-kickers are hanging around for another season and we couldn’t be happier.
That is to say, what else are you going to pair with your micro mini for re-emergence season? From Balenciaga’s extreme thigh-highs to Courreges pastel, metallic, and sexy 90s styles, boots also come a little more functional this season; consider the wader boot by Maison Margiela, or the stable platforms at Givenchy for heading back to underground clubs and dancefloors.