The Runway Roundup: Trend Report from the FW22 fashion shows
It’s time we reflect on the Fall Winter 2022 month of fashion that brought buyers, designers, and shoppers the looks of the moment, and not without the ever-present goal to “be the moment”.
With the last leg of the big four fashion weeks coming to a dramatic end (hello, Burberry), it’s time we reflect on the month that brought buyers, designers, and shoppers the looks of the moment, and not without the ever-present goal to “be the moment”.
As a reflection on the outside world; the snow-globe spectacle that is runway season leaves us outsiders wanting whatever we can get our hands on - like, now. Whether it’s Bridgerton-inspired corsetry, Batman-esque gothic glamour, or traditional house codes brought back to life - the Fall Winter 22 runways wedged a well-heeled foot back in the door of our cultural consciousness, as we continue to question, “what’s next?”.
While luxe streetwear with the likes of baggy jeans, baseball caps, low-slung cargos, oversized cardigans, space-dye knits, and the simple white tank coming from major players like Bottega Veneta, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Chloé and Versace, the trends flying in aren’t exactly low-key.
There’s a significant uptick from razzle-dazzle styles reserved for all-nighters, dinner dates, and generally foraying back into nightlife (or day-to-day life, if you’re game). Shimmering scales, glittering mesh, gauze and lace, liquid-like satin, and shiny leather all had their place on the runway, with plenty of input from the Y2K resurgence, and even a bit of that indie resurgence everyone’s talking about.
Here are the top 11 trends we can expect to enjoy a season-long (at least) spotlight for Fall Winter 22, and some you can wear right now.
Gossamer-thin and whisper-soft, sheer fabrications dominated the runways across everyone from Eckhaus Latta, Simone Rocha, Khaite, Prada, Miu Miu, and Versace, to name a few.
Shimmering transparent layers across skirts, tanks and slip dresses added an other-worldly purity to the undergarment style with Fendi doing it resoundingly best in Milan with wet-look hair and barely-there makeup.
Get set to wear pretty blouses, slip skirts, and tanks topped with tulle, spliced with opaque fabrics, or drawn out into elegant maxi dresses.
A lot of schoolyard reminiscing went down this month, whether that was the actual locker room at Coperni, or the man ties Louis Vuitton, nothing quite hit the high school note like preppy tartan at Marine Serre, Nicole Millar, and Miu Miu.
In varying check sizes and spliced colours, from the heritage homage at Thom Browne to Burberry’s iconically British windbreakers, pleated skirts and pencil dresses, and Nicole Millar’s tailored pants and blazers, tartan is settling in for the winter.
When The Batman starring a grunge-clad Robert Pattinson and cat-suited Zoe Kravitz debuted halfway through Paris, the abundance of black leather, d rings, long lace-up boots, corsetry, studs, and dark duster coats was clear.
Fashion is embracing its darker side for the better, and it might have something to do with Hollywood’s Gotham obsession. Glamorous wet-look latex, head-to-toe leather ensembles, wide shoulders and sheer tights, high-rise platforms, emo graphic motifs, and goth-girl makeup make this one to look out for. As seen across the runways at Rick Owens, Balmain, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Ambush, Tods, and Diesel.
Boned undergarments have got the green light for another season with Dion Lee leading the charge. Protective elements, structured corsetry, and thick waist-cinching belts have become a prominent theme, especially where Balmain and Dior are concerned with their metal bustiers and technical bodices.
Medieval-inspired corsetry has left the super-feminine flounce of puffy sleeves and billowing hems behind with a less-provocative, more stoic vibe. Versace flirted with those boundaries, while Gucci went a little more sporty with the Adidas collab.
Mini lengths, major impact
Miuccia Prada once again having the last laugh sending the micro-mini back down the runway, and this time (thankfully) with longer iterations for the faint of heart.
Appearing in more business-appropriate fabrics across the board, brands like Coperni, Courrèges and Off White ran with the Instagram-friendly look, the leggiest of their cast taking on mini-midriff sets in leather, tweed and sequins.
The bubble hem appears to be back for David Koma and Emilia Wickstead, while Supriya Lele, Halpern and Ahluwalia offered iterations for more than just a one night stand. Nensi Dojaka ruled the trend with delicate silhouettes and perfectly placed cut-outs matched with sheer tights.
Elle Woods would be pleased.
FW22’s most mood-boosting hue, and potentially divisive amongst all that gothic black, is shocking